As September rolls in, beauty salons witness the resurgence of their regular clientele, eager to revamp their nails after the summer sun. However, not everything remains the same; a significant regulatory change is reshaping the manicure industry across Europe. Starting from September 1, 2025 , the use of certain nail enamels has been prohibited due to health concerns stemming from their chemical components.
New course, new rules. This new era commences with a crucial shift in European beauty standards. Regulation (EU) 2025/877, which was approved in May, makes it explicit: enamels containing TPO (Triphenyl Phosphate) or DMPT/DMTA (Dimethyl P-Toluidine) are now outlawed. These compounds are widely used in the low-lamp nail-polishing process, but their usage comes with serious health warnings.
The European Commission provides clear directives; both chemicals fall under the category of CMR substances , which are classified as carcinogenic , mutagenic , or toxic to reproduction . Furthermore, the prohibition is immediate, leaving no time for salons to exhaust their stock or continue applying these products.
The sanitary motivations behind the ban. The decision to ban TPO and DMPT stems from rigorous scientific studies indicating serious health risks. According to Eldiario.es, DMPT has shown carcinogenic effects on the organs of lab animals, while TPO, recognized for speeding up nail drying with UV light, has been associated with reproduction issues.
Experts in the field, such as toxicologist Miguel Motas from the University of Murcia, have emphasized that nail salon workers are at the highest risk, as they are constantly in contact with these harmful substances. “The greatest risk occurs during application, when inhalation and skin contact are most probable,” he warned.
The European Commission confirmed that TPO has been classified as a Category 1B reproductive toxin , and with no exception requests filed, its entrance into the prohibited list was a fait accompli.
A shifting market. The repercussions of this ban are palpable: brands must now reformulate their products. As per Mujer Hoy, there are already alternative formulas emerging that use less aggressive photoinitiators , paving the way for safer and more sustainable products. This regulatory constraint could foster innovation in an industry often criticized for safety concerns.
In contrast, in the United States, TPO remains available for sale. This regulatory divergence could compel multinationals to consolidate their formulations globally, eliminating the need for dual versions of products.
A critical blow to salons. Reaction from professionals within the industry has been swift and vocal. The TPO-EU platform , which comprises distributors and nail salon professionals, has criticized the abruptness of this regulation. They argue that the lack of a transition period will result in substantial losses, forcing many small salons to withdraw entire stocks without financial compensation.
While EU administrators argue that public health takes precedence, the TPO-EU community advocates for a more gradual approach to help the sector adapt economically. In light of the ongoing sale of TPO products in the U.S., they contend that the European prohibition is excessively stringent.
The bigger picture. Beyond this specific ban, concerns about gel manicures have been mounting for years. The Catalan Society of Family and Community Medicine has reported an increasing number of allergic reactions and dermatological issues related to these treatments. The overstretched use of gel products can lead to various complications, including nail fragility , dryness , and even onycholysis (nail detachment). Other issues may include reactions to allergens dispersed in the air throughout the day.
Moreover, the tools used in nail salons are under scrutiny as well. Devices that emit ultraviolet light, essential for curing gels, have raised alarms due to studies suggesting they may damage skin DNA and trigger mutations, similar to those found in melanoma cases.
A call for broader reforms? This prohibition marks not just a regulatory change but a pivotal moment for the beauty industry as a whole. As highlighted by Professor Nicolás Olea , discussions about other potentially harmful substances are ongoing, as the European Agency for Substances and Chemical Mixtures continues its evaluations. This regulation marks a substantial shift towards higher safety standards, urging consumers to make informed decisions. Balancing between the allure of flawless nails and health considerations, Europe seems ready to take a bold step forward.
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