For many, cilantro is an indispensable citrus freshness in tacos, guacamoles, and curries. For others, it is a culinary abomination that ruins any dish with a disgusting soap flavor or even reminiscent of insects. Cilantro is undoubtedly one of the most polarizing herbs in the world, an ingredient that does not admit average terms and has generated considerable frustration.
It’s Not Just a Matter of Taste. For years, science has sought to unravel this phenomenon, and the answer is clear: if cilantro tastes like soap to you, it’s not purely a matter of being picky; the fault lies largely with your DNA.
The “Soap Gene” Exposed. The key to this genetic puzzle was uncovered in a genomic association study (GWAS) published in the journal Flavour. Researchers analyzed the DNA of nearly 30,000 individuals and discovered a direct correlation between soap-like perceptions of cilantro and a specific genetic variant.
The main suspect is a unique nucleotide polymorphism (SNP) known as RS72921001. This minor change in the genetic code is located on chromosome 11 amongst a group of olfactory receptor genes. One of these receptors, called OR6A2, seems to hold the essential clue to the mystery.
But Why? The OR6A2 gene encodes a receptor in our nose that is particularly sensitive to aldehydes—chemical compounds that are key components in the aroma of cilantro. Interestingly, these same aldehydes are also byproducts of the soap-making process and are secreted by certain insects as a defensive mechanism.
People with this genetic variant have a kind of “super-antenna” for the aldehydes in cilantro. While someone without this variant perceives a fresh and herbal aroma, individuals with the OR6A2 variant receive an overwhelming signal that their brain interprets as a soap flavor.
A More Complex Genetic Cocktail. Although the OR6A2 gene plays a critical role, the story doesn’t stop there. Another study conducted with twins at the Monell Chemical Sensa Center further complicated the narrative. Published in Chemical Senses, it confirmed that the aversion to cilantro has a strong hereditary basis—approximately 52% of the aversion can be attributed to genetics—and identified additional genes involved.
Specifically, researchers found three other genes integral to this phenomenon. The first is TRPA1, known for detecting spicy substances; the second is GNAT3, crucial for the transduction of taste signals; and the last is TAS2R50, which is a receptor for bitter taste . This insight suggests that for some individuals, the rejection of cilantro stems not merely from a soapy taste but may also involve a complete sensory experience that includes bitter notes.
The Geography of Flavor. Genetics is intricately connected to ancestry, and cilantro aversion is no exception. Statistical evidence highlights a fascinating global divide in the prevalence of this aversion, as revealed in a study by the University of Toronto. The percentage of individuals who dislike cilantro varies dramatically among different ethnocultural groups:
- Oriental Asians: 21%
- Caucasian: 17%
- Afro-descendants: 14%
- South Asians: 7%
- Hispanics: 4%
- Middle Eastern: 3%
These Percentages Make Sense. These statistical insights are not mere coincidences. Populations with less aversion tend to be those where cilantro has been a culinary staple for generations, such as in Mexican, Indian, Thai, or Middle Eastern cuisines. This raises an intriguing evolutionary question: Did these cuisines adapt to a population genetically inclined to enjoy cilantro, or did constant exposure help individuals overcome an initial aversion? The answer is likely a blend of both factors.
How to Learn to Love Cilantro. While your DNA may predispose you to dislike cilantro, this is not a lifelong sentence . Although the genetic predisposition is significant, it is not absolute. Environmental factors and exposure can play an influential role. Experts suggest it is possible to “train” your palate to accept and even enjoy cilantro.
Some methods include using cilantro in the form of pesto or sauces, which dilute the soapy flavor, or introducing it gradually mixed with stronger flavors to acclimate your palate.
Images: Lindsay Moe