If you watched the popular series *The Sopranos*, you might recall Junior’s memorable phrase: “You carry the helm the best you know. Sometimes the trip is quiet, sometimes you hit the rocks. But you keep respect; that’s what matters.” In Bali , there may be no ships sailing, but there’s a temple standing majestically on the edge of a cliff where respect is earned in a different manner: through fruit, offered glass by glass.
An Organized Band
The Uluwatu Temple , located in the southern part of Bali Island, attracts countless tourists daily, eager to witness the sunset ceremony and traditional Balinese dances. But beneath the radiant sun, there’s another less charming spectacle unfolding: a troop of thieving monkeys.
As reported by the Wall Street Journal, these 600 long-tailed macaques (*Macaca fascicularis*), revered by locals as sacred guardians, have honed their skills in the art of theft. Their tactics are straightforward: they patiently observe distracted tourists, stealthily approach, and snatch valuables within seconds—be it a mobile phone, sunglasses, or wallets.
Jonathan Hammé, a tourist from Britain, shared his experience, filled with disbelief and humor: “I was admiring the scenery when I felt something on my back. It was a monkey that had stolen my sunglasses. He climbed up a tree and began playing with them!” To retrieve his glasses, he had to offer the monkey some Oreos as a trade; while he managed to get them back, they ended up bent and unusable.
<img alt="Monkey stealing sunglasses from tourists at Uluwatu Temple" width="375" height="142" src="https://i.blogs.es/f33a61/robo/375_142.jpeg"/>Economic Intelligence at the Primate Level
These are not random acts of theft. Scientific studies conducted by Professor Jean-Baptiste Leca and his team from the University of Lethbridge in Canada have revealed that these macaques possess a sophisticated understanding of value. They primarily steal items that humans cherish more—like sunglasses, wallets, and other valuables—because they know these objects are more “exchangeable.”
Over a period of 273 days, researchers documented numerous instances of these thefts, highlighting a process that can last up to 25 minutes. Remarkably, the monkeys do not merely take; they often demand better rewards for more valuable items. This phenomenon is known in primatology as the “Token Economy” , a behavior rarely observed in wild animals. Unlike laboratory environments, these actions are natural, spontaneous, and socially learned. Younger monkeys watch successful adults, mimic their techniques, and gradually refine the art of theft. Thus, this “barter culture” is passed down through generations.
What if They Don’t Want to Return It?
When tourists find themselves unable to recover their stolen belongings, a local mediator known as a Pawang steps in. Ketut Ariana, aged 52, has been mediating between humans and monkeys for two decades. “Every week, we recover between 30 and 50 items. During peak season, we can retrieve as many as ten mobile phones in a single day,” he recounts.
Ariana notes that monkeys respond differently to various foods. For inexpensive glasses or small items, a simple banana might suffice. However, for high-end gadgets like iPhones, a full bag of fruit or, in rare cases, a raw egg may be required. “They love eggs, but if you’re too generous with them, they start turning their noses up,” he jokes.
It Is Not Something New
Although many believe this phenomenon began with the influx of tourists, Ariana asserts that such thefts have occurred long before. “Initially, they would steal bracelets or necklaces from worshippers attending ceremonies. When tourists armed with phones and cameras arrived, the monkeys simply adapted,” he explains.
Research published in the Philosophical Transactions of the Royal Society B concluded that the theft behaviors observed in the Uluwatu macaque colony have been evolving for over 30 years. Interestingly, these behaviors can differ significantly between monkey subgroups, with some specializing in stealing glasses, others focusing on mobile phones, and some targeting fabric items. Each troop has its unique style.
Are There Other Thieves?
While Uluwatu is the most studied case, similar behaviors can be found in other parts of Asia. A documentary series by National Geographic showcases how towns in Thailand, such as Lopburi , have experienced true “invasions” of macaques, with these creatures raiding homes, looting refrigerators, and clashing with residents. In India, numerous cities deal with rogue monkeys entering offices, hospitals, and marketplaces. However, the key distinction for Uluwatu’s monkeys lies in their structured “rescue robbery” system; they prefer goods to food for their exchanges.
A Dilemma on a Saturated Tourist Island
The context amplifies the persistence of this phenomenon. In May 2025 alone, Bali welcomed 602,213 international visitors , according to the Central Statistics Office of Bali . This year has already seen over 2.6 million foreign tourists , surpassing the numbers from 2024. Such inflows naturally provide the macaques with a consistent supply of naive newcomers, making them prime targets for theft.
American tourist Taylor Uter , who was participating in a yoga retreat, found herself in a similar predicament when her mobile was snatched. After offering several bags of fruit, the monkey eventually released the phone intact. However, the experience soured her visit: “I didn’t get to see the fire show; I just wanted to leave. I felt like I was amidst a gang of criminal monkeys!”
Beyond Astonishment or Anecdote
The case of Uluwatu compels us to consider coexistence between humans and animals in tourist attractions. While the macaques are integral to the temple ecosystem and hold spiritual significance, their behavior has birthed a parallel economy of theft, recovery, and anecdotal tales.
Authorities advise visitors to keep valuables stored in closed backpacks, refrain from making direct eye contact with the monkeys, and strictly adhere to the temple staff’s instructions. However, the risk of theft remains omnipresent.
Ultimately, in Uluwatu, there are no easy solutions: monkeys will continue their thieving ways, and tourists will keep arriving. Scientists view this as a unique case of symbolic economy among wild animals; it’s simply a part of the daily fabric here. For visitors, the lesson is straightforward: safeguard your valuables… or consider carrying a bag of mangoes in your backpack as an alternative!
Image | Thomas Schoch
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