“She was intense this Paris Fashion Week, right?” »» The remark returns to the mouths of professionals who attended the fall-winter 2025-2026 season, which ended on March 11. Indeed, this fashion week was loaded, rich in novelty and haunted by speculation concerning the transfer window of designers, in particular the position to be filled at Gucci. Until the end, it will have been dense, with the parades of Chanel, Miu Miu and Saint Laurent on the program of the ninth and last day.
In the morning, Chanel reinvests the Grand Palais, long closed for work. This monumental space is associated with the parades of Karl Lagerfeld, who organized his most huge shows there, from the supermarket reconstituted to the launching ramp of a rocket. Chanel nevertheless chooses not to reconnect with the parade-show, at least not now, while the studio still signs the collections.
Pending the effective arrival of Matthieu Blazy, appointed artistic director in December 2024, the house of rue Cambon replayed its classics. After studying Gabrielle Chanel’s Paravents and the range of colors she used, the studio is concentrating this season on the knot, a recurring element of the founder’s wardrobe. In the Grand Palais, a huge black ribbon twirling (scenographed by designer Willlo Perron) acts as a decor and also announces the game on the proportions that crosses this wardrobe.
A minivest is worn with very long pants, while a large poplin shirt descends to the ankles. The small tweed dresses are all the shorter since the colleagues are abundant; The knots are sometimes huge and split (on a long ivory silk dress) or tiny (in rhinestones on a belt). The pearls of the necklaces are swollen, sometimes large as oranges in a bag-Bijou version. Coherent in its intentions and with the history of the house, this collection still lacks a little imagination. But everything in its time: giving Chanel a boost to Matthieu Blazy’s mission, which will arrive on rue Cambon in April.
Water mint socks
At Miu Miu, Miuccia Prada wants “Create elegance from nothing, Through everyday life and manipulation of simple parts ”. Her wardrobe always plays on bourgeois archetypes (fur, paletot, cocktail dress, pumps), which she skillfully mistreats. The little pale pink silk dress has the suspended straps and the standing bra, the heels are worn with water mint socks, the coats have their backs deconstructs, as if we had stuck the tissue of fabric.
This strangeness is reinforced by the choice of models, often androgynous, sometimes male, sometimes famous (the musician Towa Bird, the actress Sarah Paulson…). Even if the outfits are a little redundant, the whole works well and should extend the incredible state of grace that Miu Miu crosses: its sales have almost doubled in the year 2024, to reach 1.37 billion euros in turnover.
For once, the mission to close the Fashion Week is not to be taken on by Louis Vuitton, but by Saint Laurent, who organizes his parade at the foot of the Eiffel Tower. In a large shiny ground box that reflects the Onyx walls, Anthony Vaccarello continues his reflection on the Saint Laurent style. Last season, he had cut off his collection in two, by presenting tier -shaped tailors, then shaded sets. Five months later, he resumed his work on color.
“I wanted sewing, but without ornament, remaining as simple as possible. And I had the idea of these dresses in violent colors, almost saturated. I removed all the interior constructions there and only kept the power of the shoulders ”explains the artistic director. Available in a palette ranging from orange to Klein blue via fuchsia, these short dresses cut in washed satin or a technical jersey have their massive build and their fluid fell. They draw a subjugating silhouette, especially worn with pumps that stretch the leg.
Again, the Belgian designer imagines a second aesthetic part very different from the first passages. Nuisettes in dark silk are worn with monumental petticoats at the low waist, descended under the hips; The tulle layers that make them up on the rhythm of the steps in a hypnotizing movement. This silhouette is not very Saint Laurent, nor very Anthony Vaccarello. The latter, which has been carrying out impeccable collections for three years, could have replayed the sharp locker room which he masters so well. By sketching these softer forms, he shows that, despite his longevity in Saint Laurent, he still has new ideas to express. And allows you to finish this intense fashion week in style.