– Are you from Mali, I asked the man behind me in the check-in queue at Gardermoen. I had first noticed that the African behind me spoke French. Then I had long eyes, and saw the green passport he had in his hands. – Yes, answered the man and smiled. I quickly began an explanation, as if to apologize for being so curious, and explained that I had lived in Northern Mali for a year. The man raised his eyebrows and asked when I lived there. – 2010 and 2011, I answered. – Oh, then I understand, said the man. Soldiers have become a common sight on Mali’s streets in the last 12 years. Photo: THOMAS COEX / AFP From pleasant camel riding to horrific massacre And I also understood why he asked. Northern Mali in 2011 was quite different from today’s Northern Mali. In 2011, I was able to blog home to family and friends about an exciting society, far from the Norwegian weekday. About pleasant people, new habits and strong impressions. Camel riding, sandstorms and lively village markets were the most exciting things that happened. Now I report on massacres, terrorist attacks and ethnic violence. – What is your name, asked the man in the departure hall at Gardermoen. – Isiyakah Diallo, I replied, knowing that he knows the tradition where visitors who have lived in Mali for a period are often given local names. – So you are Fulan, said the man and smiled. I could confirm that maybe I wasn’t a real Fulani, but that the name was at least Fulani, and given to me by Fulani in Northern Mali. At the same time, I felt a small twinge in my stomach, because I was suddenly a little unsure of what he was thinking about exactly that. Fulanar = terrorist? The Fulana, my friends, are quite unpopular in Mali at the moment. They are blamed for supporting the terrorist groups that are ravaging the north. In some cases, that is true. But in some other cases it is wrong. And this is often the case, that it is impossible to say that a person thinks this way or that way, based only on what sex, age, religion or ethnic background the person has. The Fulanas run cattle. Grazing rights are a topic that often creates conflict with other ethnic groups. Photo: AFP Nevertheless, we humans have a tendency to categorize and put people in boxes. And if politicians, military leaders and the media build up under such prejudices, then it can develop into a horrible nightmare. It has in Mali. And it especially affects the Fulani. The massacre that ended up in the shadow of Butsja Over time, ethnic antagonisms have grown ever greater, and the Malian authorities have not exactly contributed to calming down the level of conflict. The military junta in the capital has supported local militias with weapons. These militias often consist of men who belong to the Dogon people. They carry out attacks against villages where they suspect terrorists live. And it is usually Fulani villages. Then there is a revenge attack back again. And so Mali has ended up in a vicious spiral between two ethnic groups. In addition, the military junta has also carried out horrific attacks. Such as in the village of Moura. Because at the same time as the world’s eyes were on the horrific images that came from Bucha in Ukraine, another, even bigger, massacre was also carried out in Mali. And also in Moura, Russian soldiers were involved, because Mali’s military junta now cooperates closely with Russia. Reports tell of over 500 people killed in Moura. Some of them were terrorists. Others were civilians. Malian soldiers, supported by Russian mercenaries, are said to have been behind it. There have been many village massacres in Mali, but few pictures of the events. This is a rare insight from the village of Ogossagou where over 130 Fulani were killed. Photo: AFP In today’s Mali, this happens. The military junta has chosen a new direction, together with Russia. They think France and the UN were too ineffective, and the junta probably didn’t like the fact that democratic elections were demanded either. Mali now hopes that Russian support will lead to more effective warfare. But more effective warfare often also means attacks on civilians and completely innocent people. For sure it is effective to enter a village and carry out a massacre. But killing people arbitrarily is a violation of the rules of war, and rarely a good recipe if you want to unite a country and create lasting peace. Hama and the dream of education In the midst of all this, there is still a weekday. With camels, sandstorms and village markets. During that weekday, my friends live in extreme poverty and with shattered dreams for the future. One of them is Hama. He grew up to the sound of well-meaning advice to work hard at school, so he could get a higher education, and become the generation that helped his family out of poverty. Higher education is by no means common if you grow up in poor conditions in Mali, as Hama has. But after hard work, where he met several professors who opposed him if he did not pay a little extra under the table, Hama finally managed to get an education in law. It was the start…of nothing. Because during the study period, Mali had ended up in war and conflict. He returned home to Northern Mali, where he has now spent eight years looking for permanent work. Nor is it easy to find for those who cannot pay for a job. And how is he going to be able to pay for a job when he doesn’t have a job? I can feel the frustration rushing through my blood. His brothers, who dropped out of school and put their muscles to good use, have had it rather simple and found odd jobs here and there. But for people like Hama, the war has brought with it a hopeless situation, with little job creation, a total lack of investment and development. Many people in Mali are sick of French influence, and believe that Russia is a far better cooperation partner. Photo: MICHELE CATTANI / AFP Is there hope? Many in Mali have lost heart. It helps that it is possible for rebel groups to recruit new, disaffected and unemployed young men. I myself have reported on Mali many times, and I have tried to end the reports on an optimistic and positive note. This time I don’t think it will work. It would be deceiving both myself and you who read this. Because things really aren’t going well in the country I hate to love.
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The country I hate to love – news Urix – Foreign news and documentaries
