Løke reached the 8,611 meter high peak at 00:37 Norwegian time. He became the first on top of all climbers who were on their way up. Wednesday night looked ugly. At that time the wind was 35 meters per second. – The trip means everything to Frank Løke. He has been training for this for a long time. This is according to the press contact for Løke, Torkjel Haabet. A little over a year ago, Løke climbed to the top of Mount Everest. Getting to the top of K2 is considered to be very difficult and dangerous. Sherpa Tsering Pemba on Mount Everest with Frank Løke May 2021. Photo: Privat One of the most dangerous climbing routes in the world The mountain in Kashmir, on the border between Pakistan and China, is considered to be one of the world’s most demanding mountains to climb. According to the New York Times, almost one in six people on K2 has died. – I know well about the dangers in the mountains. The consequences are very serious, Frank Løke told news when he packed up the equipment in Sandefjord. On the way up, Løke said that deaths cannot be avoided. The trip is organized by professional sherpas who are paid to get people to the top. Around 200 people are trying the same as Løke this week. Together with Sherpa Pemba Tashi, Løke first stayed at the base camp, which is located 5150 meters above sea level. He was also on K2 for the first time. According to the press contact, both Frank and Pemba are in good condition and report sufficient oxygen. A risky descent to camp 3 is now the turn, where 80% of accidents occur. Frank Løke with the ice ax and climbing equipment he packed with him before his departure in June. Photo: Hege Therese Holtung / news Honorably deceased Løke visited the “K2 memorial place” as many as four times before leaving base camp. All those who have died in accidents while climbing are named here with signs with their name and nationality. For Løke, it was a place that gave him energy before the expedition. – They have sort of paved the way for us who are coming now. Deep respect for these people and this place, said Løke on the way up. From Basecamp, the trip to camp 1 first went on Monday. This is the first of four places where mountain climbers usually set up tents to eat, sleep and rest. The trip to camp 1 took nine hours. Sleeping with a climbing harness At the camp, Løke slept with a climbing harness attached to a rope on the outside of the tent. – This is so sick that he just has to put his fear aside. Everything is dangerous. There are rocks flying through the air all the time. Several have almost been hit, said Løke on the way up. On the way up, it was all about going as economically as possible to save energy. The team arrived at camp 2 on Tuesday. The stage consisted of the vertical rock wall “House of Chimney”. The trip took 6 hours. Together with Sherpa Pemba Tashi, he spent the night here at 6,600 meters above sea level. in a small two-person tent. It was very windy here. The tent was anchored to the ground and three other places so that they would not blow away. The danger of misjudgments increases Frank and Sherpa Tashi arrived at camp 3 at 7,300 meters on Wednesday. On the trip, they had to make several stops. Because of the thin air, they now had to use oxygen cylinders. The oxygen Frank and Tashi had with them could then last another 15–16 hours. The climbers must make sure they have enough for the descent. The question then was whether the weather would keep the wind up to 35 meters per second. – It has become so high and steep now that you stop caring, Løke said then. In this phase of the climb, many people become indifferent and make technical mistakes. – Eat and sleep now, then we’ll go for gold tomorrow, said Løke. Easter atmosphere at camp 4 The trip to camp 4, 7700 m above sea level, consisted of a lot of walking in deep snow. They therefore used a lot of energy and needed rest. While they were at camp 4, there was an Easter atmosphere in the mountains, but the wind was reported at 35 m/s. With such a wind, you quickly freeze to death if you don’t get into a tent. The last stage is at an altitude of 900 metres. It consists of a part of climbing called the Bottleneck. “It looks bloody terrifying,” Frank wrote in a final update on the way up. Bottleneck lies 400 meters below the summit with overhanging ice blocks. This is an extremely dangerous point for climbers. Many of the fatal accidents on K2 have occurred around this area. Reached the goal The day before departure from camp 4 was very emotional, says press contact Haabet. Frank then got to talk to his eldest daughter Ada via satellite phone. According to Frank, the conversation led to many tears, and provided an enormous amount of energy. Later, Ada sent the message; “We are very happy for you too❤️come up to our house too❤️” Risky descent The descent only takes place to camp 3. It involves a high risk as they must have enough energy left. At the same time, they cannot wait too long because the weather is expected to deteriorate rapidly.
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Frank Løke managed to reach the top of K2 – news Vestfold and Telemark – Local news, TV and radio
