When we think about fine dining and beverage pairing, the word “sommelier” typically comes to mind, primarily associated with wine. According to the SAR (Spanish Royal Academy), a sommelier is defined as a “wine expert and liquor who, in large hotels, restaurants, etc., suggests customers the appropriate drink for the occasion.” While this definition is comprehensive, sommeliers are gradually expanding their expertise to include a less conventional beverage: water. This emerging role highlights the significance of water’s unique characteristics and its pairing potential with food.
In 2011, the Water Sommelier Union emerged in Germany. This international professional association aims to promote the interests of water sommeliers, emphasizing the importance of mineral water culture. The rise of this profession has led to specialized training programs, bringing forth a new generation of experts dedicated to the subtle art of pairing water with various dishes.
Other organizations, such as the Doemens Academy in Germany and the Fine Water Academy in the United States, reflect this global trend. Unlike wine lists, these initiatives aim to elevate the profile of water by providing consumers with unique tasting experiences.
Water Menus: The New Trend
At Doemens Academy, the emphasis is clear: “Not all waters are the same.” Alongside training available in various languages, they initiated a Spanish-language program in 2024. According to Doemens, water sommeliers “disseminate knowledge about the quality, characteristics, variety of brands, and the value of excellent mineral waters.”
Within this niche market, individuals like Martin Riese—the first certified water sommelier in the United States—and British sommelier Doran Binder are gaining popularity. Binder boasts a significant following on Instagram and has partnered with the Michelin-listed French-style restaurant The Popote to produce a custom water menu.
Initially, when Binder proposed a dedicated water menu to The Popote, the idea was dismissed as “ridiculous.” However, after conducting a water tasting, the restaurant owners realized that “water is not just water.” This revelation marked a turning point for The Popote, allowing them to appreciate the nuances of different waters and their compatibility with various foods.
The tasting experience at The Popote included a range of water varieties accompanied by food pairings such as Manchego cheese, comte, chocolate, olives, or Parma ham. The owners quickly discerned that certain waters enhanced the flavors of the accompanying food, leading to the creation of the first formal water menu in the UK, priced between five and 19 pounds.
Interestingly, the key factor Binder focuses on is TDS (Total Dissolved Solids). According to him, “The measure of minerals determines the flavor and taste.” He points out that while zero TDS in water makes it excellent for cleaning windows, it is far from suitable for human consumption.
Binder presenting his water menu
The water options at The Popote showcase a wide TDS range, from 14 for Lauretana to approximately 3,300 for Vichy Celestins. Comparatively, other mineral waters like Vichy Catalan hold around 2,900 TDS, while seawater registers between 30,000 and 40,000 TDS.
The task of pairing waters effectively mirrors the complexities of wine pairing. For instance, if a French mineral water is excessively salty, it pairs best with a more savory food option, enhancing the overall tasting experience and balancing flavors.
The menu also includes complimentary tap water, akin to the standard offerings in specialized cafes. In a time when alcohol consumption is declining, providing gourmet non-alcoholic options like this makes perfect sense.
Serving Water the Right Way
To truly enhance the water tasting experience at home, wine sommelier Joanna Vallejo, who has also specialized in water, offers some tips:
- Read the label to understand the water’s origin.
- If pairing with wine, consider using mineral water with carbonation to enhance flavors.
- Select the appropriate water: fizzy waters for spicy foods, low-mineral waters for salads, and robust waters for hearty meats.
- Avoid using ice, as it can dilute high-quality waters.
Vallejo emphasizes the importance of having two varieties of water at home: one for hydration and another for enjoyment. With an increasing array of gourmet waters available, understanding water labels and their properties will become essential for any culinary enthusiast.
While it might seem trivial, the awareness of water quality and its pairing potential may lead you to treat it with the same reverence generally reserved for fine wines. This fresh perspective on hydration could transform your dining experience.
Images | The Popote
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