“The colonial in a new guise varies from the gorgeous to the disappointing”. This is how Dagens Næringsliv’s review of the Kolonialen at Bislett in Oslo begins. In total, the restaurant has received 22 points, a completely average score for a neighborhood restaurant that does not compete with the industry’s most exclusive eateries. Nevertheless, the review has caused the Kolonialen manager and star chef Pontus Dahlström to rage on social media. – The score is absolutely correct. We are not Maaemo or Lysverket. What I react to is that this review is based on assumptions and lies, says Dahlström to news. Dahlström reacts, among other things, to the reviewer writing “We have observed several times that when restaurateurs are busy with other projects outside the restaurant, the consistent, good quality drops”. Read the full response from Dagens Næringsliv further down in the matter. – Hurt – It hurts. The person clearly has no insight into my working hours or how I work. I only work with this restaurant. I’m at work now and the last guest will probably leave at midnight tonight, he says. Dahlström is a partner in the company PALarsen, but says that he only spends an estimated five percent of his working time on running the company. – I spend all my time at this restaurant. I have a family with three children who wonder when I will come home. Pontus Dahlström at the door of his restaurant Kolonialen at Bislett in Oslo. Photo: news / Eirin Tjoflot Dahlström also reacts to what he believes to be several incorrect claims in the report, which he believes testify to poor competence. Among other things, the reviewer writes that it was not “financial savings” to choose today’s three courses rather than ordering from the à la carte menu. – It is not true. Today’s wooden dishes have a price discount of around eight per cent, says Dahlström. He also reacts to the reviewer pointing out that a bottle of Pommard at NOK 2,000 corresponds to a price less than three times what it costs at the Vinmonopolet. Dahlström also believes this is a serious mistake, because the vintage he serves in the Kolonialen is no longer available in the Pole. – It is a review based on guesswork. The incompetence shines through, says Dahlström, who believes that low competence is a recurring problem among today’s food reviewers. DN: – 20 years’ experience as a food critic Gry Egenes, editor for ethics and method in Dagens Næringsliv (DN), has been submitted to the criticism. Gry Egenes, editor for ethics and method in Dagens Næringsliv. Here from an award ceremony in 2021. Photo: NTB – Dahlström is praised in the review for having transformed the area around the Kolonialen into a place where guests come to enjoy themselves. We have never doubted that it is due to a lot of hard and dedicated work, writes Egenes in an e-mail to news. The editor also points out that restaurant owners are of course free to criticize Dagens Næringsliv. – Our opinion is that this review is both factual and knowledge-based, and we also register that Pontus Dahlström agrees with the score that was given. But Egenes does not agree that the review is based on factual errors or low competence. – The review is based on facts about prices and menu as well as our reviewer’s experience. It will necessarily be subjective as every review is, she says and points out that the reviewer in question has over 20 years’ experience as a food critic. How Dagens Næringsliv responds In an e-mail, editor Gry Egenes in Dagens Næringsliv responds to the criticism of the chef. “All our reviewers are experienced and have good competence as restaurant reviewers. The reviewer of Kolonialen has 20 years’ experience as a food reviewer. We have kept our food reviewers anonymous, because we believe it gives the best result for our readers that the reviewer is treated on an equal basis with all other guests. Anonymous food reviewers have a long tradition both in Norway and internationally. The restaurants are free to criticize DN. Our opinion is that this review is both factual and knowledge-based, and we also note that Pontus Dahlström agrees with the score that was given. Dahlström is praised in the review for transforming the area around the Kolonialen into a place where guests come to enjoy themselves. We have never doubted that it is due to a lot of hard and dedicated work. The review is based on facts about prices and menu as well as our reviewer’s experience. It will necessarily be subjective as any review is. Our very experienced reviewer believes that the quality of the service was somewhat lower than the last time we reviewed the Kolonialen. That’s how reviews are supposed to work. We do not understand all the criticism from Dahlstrøm. When he says, for example, that the price estimate for the wine is incorrect, it is unclear what he means. The price is available on Vinmonopolet’s website and in DN’s own wine database. The use of anonymous restaurant critics is a debate that regularly comes up. It is interesting and demanding. We in the press want to be open, nevertheless we believe in DN that we give our readers the best assessment of a restaurant when it is unknown that we are visiting.” Wants an end to anonymous reviews Finnish Dahlström is one of Norway’s leading chefs. Among other things, he helped start the Michelin-awarded Maaemo. He has run Kolonialen at Bislett since 2016. Last autumn they expanded the premises. – Everyone who works in the industry receives both good and bad reviews, but I cannot accept lies and personal attacks. The least we can ask is that reviews are objective and fact-based and show respect for the livelihood of many small businesses in Norway. Dahlström believes it should be a requirement for food critics that they have a professional background in food and drink. Today’s dishes are prepared at Kolonialen in Oslo. Photo: news / Eirin Tjoflot In addition, he believes food critics must stop operating anonymously under synonyms. The DN review is signed by the newspaper’s long-standing, anonymous reviewer signature “Salt & Pepper”. – It is a weakness, you obscure a weak review by not writing your name. One had not dealt with anonymous stock tips or car tips from a person who was blind and had no legs. It is at this level that they treat us, says Dahlström. – It is of course better that you come forward with a name. Then you can have a dialogue and a debate. Food critics have enormous power, the chef points out. – They can create a success. But they can also cause people to go bankrupt and lose their jobs. – Extremely powerful Dahlström is supported by fellow chef Andreas Viestad. – I think it is tough for Pontus to take this match. It is always difficult to speak out when you are dissatisfied with reviews. You become the sour one and, moreover, you draw a lot of attention to something that is negative for you, says Viestad. Viestad himself has experience as a food writer, has been the presenter of several food programs and has published a number of cookbooks. Chef and presenter Andreas Viestad calls for a wider debate about food criticism. Photo: Kamilla Marie Johnsen / Kamilla Marie Johnsen He believes it is time to take the debate on food criticism as seriously as the debate on other types of criticism and reviews. – As an author and writer, I feel that there are no limits to how many debates one can have about literature and literary criticism, but I have never been invited to a debate about restaurant criticism. I haven’t heard that there have been any either, says Viestad. He believes that food reviews have improved in recent years, but that it is still uneven. – It’s a shame, because there aren’t that many food reviewers, but those who do exist are extremely powerful. Demanding debate Egenes in Dagens Næringsliv writes that the newspaper has long operated with anonymous reviews. – We have insisted that our food reviewers be anonymous, because we believe it gives the best result for our readers that the reviewer is treated on an equal basis with all other guests. Anonymous food reviewers have a long tradition both in Norway and internationally. At the same time, she acknowledges that the debate about anonymous critics is both “demanding and interesting”. – We in the press want to be open, nevertheless we at DN believe that we give our readers the best assessment of a restaurant when it is unknown that we are visiting.
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Colonial owner in the throat of anonymous reporting practice – news Norway – Overview of news from different parts of the country
