The Great Tortilla Debate: Onion or No Onion?
Divided into two camps, the sincebollistas believe that Spanish tortillas should not contain onion, while the concebollistas argue for its inclusion. Surprisingly, evidence from the 16th century suggests that onions not only have historical significance in the Spanish tortilla but might have triumphed over potatoes by a long shot.
A Historical Perspective
The debate finds its roots in culinary history, specifically the ‘Book of Kitchen Art’, authored in 1599 by Diego Granado Maldonado, who served as head chef to Philip III. This book details various recipes and cooking techniques of the time, crucially including omelets made with onions and eggs, well before the popularization of potatoes in Europe.
Onions: The Unsung Hero
Long before the potato made its European debut in the late 16th century, Spaniards prepared tortillas with eggs and onions. This is noteworthy because it contradicts the popular notion that the potato is an essential ingredient in the classic tortilla. Historical evidence suggests that onions played a significant role, not merely as a garnish but as a key component in the recipe.
“For the tortilla, ten fresh eggs are needed along with finely chopped onion, which has been cooked and sautéed, along with bacon and cheese.”
This excerpt highlights the importance of onions, aligning with the viewpoint of the concebollistas.
Potatoes: A Love-Hate Relationship
While potatoes took centuries to gain acceptance in Spanish culinary culture, their eventual rise coincided with agricultural reforms in the 18th century under Charles III. Initially an unpopular choice, the tuber eventually became a staple, overshadowing its predecessors in the tortilla scene.
A Cultural Divide
Fast forward to today, and the national dish is still a contentious topic. Recent surveys indicate that approximately 70.4% of Spaniards prefer tortillas with onions, suggesting that the concebollistas currently hold sway in the kitchen. In contrast, only 20.9% lean towards the onion-free option.
Conclusion: The Enduring Legacy
This culinary debate is not just about ingredients; it reflects a larger cultural dialogue within Spain. The findings from Granado’s 1599 cookbook affirm that onions have a rightful place in the traditional Spanish tortilla. So the next time you enjoy this iconic dish, remember—history might just be on the side of the concebollistas.